Arriving in Siem Reap was like stepping in the trajectory of a hair dryer. The passage through border control (with our e-visa) and electronic arrival card was easy peasy and took a few minutes, contrary to expectations, so the online application was worth the earlier hard work.

Our ‘official taxi’ driver was very chatty so we learnt a few things on our one hour journey into Siem Reap. The  Pandora Suite Angkor turned out to be an excellent choice, with a beautiful overflowing swimming pool surrounded by palm trees and flowers and no one else there. Hired a motorbike 125cc for 3 days.

The next three days were devoted to visiting the temples and sites of Angkor. Once again, obtaining our 3-day pass was a very simple process, no queue whatsoever. However, we were not, unfortunately, the only tourists at Angkor Wat. Nor was the tip from the seasoned traveler accurate (rather as predicted), as the sunset viewing (‘all alone’) was anything but a unique solitary experience. Describing our astonishing visits over the next few days is not an easy task. An impressionist, rather than realist, painting, seems appropriate. 

Massive, geometric structures with an elegant and perfect harmonious sense of proportion and perspective. Intricate bas relief carvings by the hundreds of all sorts of battles of good against evil, monkey soldiers, elephants, divinities of all shapes and sizes, thousands of Apsaras ( dancers), a mixture of Hindu and Buddhist religion and culture.

Angkor Wat is imposing, massive, brutal in design. We actually preferred many of the smaller temples and monasteries, for example, the steep climb to the towers of Baphuon at the end of the day and many monkeys, including several families, playing in the dust and gathering together at dusk. Or Ta Prohm, heavily restored but a place of utter serenity (and empty when we arrived early morning) where nature and ruins are interwoven. The huge ceiba (fromagers in French because the wood from these trees was/is actually imported to France to make the wooden boxes of camembert) have taken over the site. Serenity and yet destruction here, as the trees have prevailed over human design and destroyed the once majestic buildings.  

The King’s swimming pool (400m by 800m) is of impressive proportions.

Every temples had its steep ascent, Ta Kheo gave us the most wonderful view of the surrounding forest, even if I sat at the top and wondered how I would get down. The ingenious sense of proportion did not seem to extend to the size of the steps, much too high and narrow. Luckily our vantage point which appeared to be a sheer drop was not the way down.

Quaint signs of ‘way of visit’ which I assume is a translation from the French ‘sens de la visite’. I am allowed to think this as many renowned French archeologists were responsible for helping uncover and restore the sites. Another thing that is impressed us is the contemporary restoration of many sites, including with international cooperation (from India and elsewhere). 

 An amazing 2 storey library (12thc) at Preah Khan.  Statuesque elephants at Mebon.

Fake doors with carvings.  The walk across the reservoir to Neak Prean to see the perfectly square  ponds with a sanctuary in the central one of a mythical  (now beheaded) horse. Extraordinary feat of engineering to have created so many large, beautifully proportioned, reservoirs and dams.

The tip (worth a laugh) was to climb up to Phnom Bakheng to see the sunset for a solitary experience. We were dubious from the start and indeed the hordes were also at the rendezvous. Wonderful view of surrounding countryside and personally I liked the slightly hazy view of Angor Wat from afar, looking like a fairy tale castle. Needless to say we didn’t stay for the sunset experience and enjoyed the descent in the woods more, as dark fell swiftly around us.

Other images that have stuck in my mind. The bridge with decapitated Buddhas and a constant traffic jam. Seeing people on boats collecting the weeds on the reservoir early morning. The occasional pink of a lotus flower. Workers in green t-shirts sweeping up leaves and clearing up dirt everywhere. The lines of tuk tuk drivers along the road touting for work, many of whom snooze all day or play music / games on their phones. And the dozens of stalls selling street food, drinks, tat tourist ware – the offer far exceeding the demand.

It is safer to be on a motorbike than cross the road on foot in Siem Reap or in the Angkor Wat vicinity. No one walks ( apart from  us) so we appear to be invisible.