One of the reasons we chose to come to Australia was because we have family here. The family link is on Roland’s side, Sandy (is Valerie’s second cousin) and Kate (his daughter, is Roland’s third cousin) met us at Perth airport, just as Lydia (Kate’s daughter) did in Melbourne. The sensation of being a VIP thus continues.

Sensations refer to physical feelings and also to feelings of excitement. WA has produced a series of sensational experiences so far – a riot of striking colours, powerful unforgettable landscapes, generous and friendly people, as well as the most amazing diverse wildlife. A unique, raw, intense, wilderness.

After settling in at Kate’s flat we caught up and cooked the biggest snapper I have ever seen. Our first Perth experience was a day out to Rottnest Island, which Kate had planned for us, with Joanna, a friend of hers, whom we have already met in Paris. After the ferry, Roland and Joanna biked up and down the island and Kate and I walked and took the bus. We met up at various bays, coves and beaches and learnt the art of a quick swim to cool off.  Deep turquoise beaches with wind, purple coral and multi coloured fishes that even I could see, thanks to Kate’s gift of goggles. I saw one quokka and Roland saw a lot more, being on a bike.

Kate showed us some of the highlights of Perth, including Freemantle, where we walked up to the top of a pub and sat down to admire the rooftops and old buildings. Swimming inside a shark net on Cotesloe, alongside the sculptures on the beach, was another memorable first. Sandy prepared a delicious meal for us with members of the family and we spent a very convivial evening in his grand house.

Preparations for our trip up North included the acquisition of 30l of water and other provisions in case of emergencies,  delighted that Kate decided to join us for the first few days. We finally had the pleasure of meeting Olivia (Kate’s mother) properly, over another fish dinner. She has generously supplied us with home-grown mangoes, home-made honey and other delicious goodies and I thoroughly enjoyed spending the evening with her.

The first sensation of the WA road trip up north  was the yellow Pinnacles. The strikingly yellow sand and eerie strange rock formations are like nothing seen before. The rocks look like little figures from another planet. No one quite understands how they are formed.  There is a First Nations’ story of people sinking in the sand and reaching out with their hands, before the sand engulfed them.

The bright yellow stands out amongst the whiteness of the neighbouring sand dunes. The long long drive to Kalbarri where we arrived late that evening was rewarded by our first sighting of kangaroos, albeit on the lawn of the town centre, as if they were strays. 

The next sensation was the red earth canyons of Kalbarri. Denied the pleasure of the loop walk, both by the park prohibitory rules about the heat  after 7am and the very annoying  flies, we contented ourselves with a visit to the skywalk and Nature’s Window. We paid hommage to Tobias, who came here in 2012, recognizing we are following in his pioneering footsteps.

Sadly Kate left for a long bus journey back early the next morning. We drove on North, stopping to look at the environmentally important stromatolithes on Hamelin Beach which were less impressive to look at. We were stunned by the very white

Shell beach, where the approach to the sea is an uncomfortable (if you don’t have the right shoes) walk across a crunchy beach made of the tiniest white sea shells. The water is excessively salty. This odd landscape, with a turquoise shallow sea, proved almost impossible to capture on the camera.

On our way towards our next stop at Monkey Mia Beach, we saw several  emus crossing the road majestically, as well as big thin lizards, called goannas. We had now arrived in the red, red earth of the desolate North, contrasted at Monkey Mia by a beach where one side is white (limestone) and the other red (sandstone). Although this particular place to stop was not our cup of tea at all, we were rewarded by a beautiful sunset and sunrise in  and from the sea , along with 4 our 5 dolphins swimming 3 m from the sea shore. In addition to this particular sensational sighting (I have already lost count), there were huge prehistoric-looking pelicans with pink beaks, sea turtles and massive fish, seen from the jetty. 

The next day we retraced some hard-earned kms and passed the fork to the Useless loop road, accessible only to drivers of 4 wheel cars. Our next stop was at Wooramel, a rustic  and well organised, pleasant campsite, boasting of hot river springs from a subterranean river 240 m deep. Needless to say, all the rivers we crossed in the Northern bush were dry and empty.

A starry starry night: a sight to behold. We  realised we needed a new constellation map to get our bearings, the luminous Milky Way being our best marker for now. We have since acquired some markers and now recognise the Southern Cross and Orion’s Belt, thanks to Kate’s help and Julian’s stellar app.

Leaving Wooramel before breakfast and coffee ( a not to be repeated decisoon) we saw and heard white parrots in flight and more kms of red, red earth.

After handing in the smallest car on the road in WA, we met Julian ( my brother) off the plane at Learmonth airport. We would have taken a photo but it’s strictly forbidden, as it’s in a military area. After a short drive to Exmouth in a now whopping 4 by 4 and settling into Ningaloo Lodge, we decided to visit

Turtle beach, on the Ningaloo Reef, in the late afternoon. We struck gold and and stared into awe at dozens of green turtle hatchlings making a run for their lives and the sea, at the end of the day. If the gulls or fish don’t catch them, they can live for up to 60 years. An epiphemenon of Darwin’s theory of the survival of the fittest.

Next day we went on our own snokelling outing at Turquoise Beach, which more than lived up to its name, where we saw a vast amount of amazing multi coloured fish, the likes of which I have never seen. I swam with a turtle. Julian was delighted by our ability to find the perfect picnic place at the beach. 

Our next sensational experience involved a personal epiphany. We had booked to go on a shark whale outing, though Roland and I didn’t sign up for that part. The excursion involved 2 long snorkeling expeditions and I used prescription goggles for the first time in my life. It was like being given back the sight I do not remember having, my first pair of glasses having been acquired with many tears, at the age of 8. Suddenly I could see in the water and gazed at multi-coloured parrot fish, butterfly fish, neons, chromies, a shoal of juvenile barracudas, many crocodile fish, 2 stingrays (one enormous with a wedge) and a reef shark. We also 2 octopi, a huge clam and star fish, along with a myriad of other aquatic wonders, including purple coral.  Julian swam with a grouper. 

Here are a few photos made by Albert, a young Spanish man and excellent  (professional) photographer, who was on the excursion tour.